• Start seeds of these and other slow-developing flowers in February: alyssum, coleus, dusty miller, geraniums, impatiens, marigolds, perennials, petunias, phlox, portulaca, salvia, vinca and verbena.

• Trees with large cavities in their trunks should be evaluated yearly as to whether or not they should be removed for safety reasons. When a cavity takes up over 75 percent of a limb or trunk, the wood could give way anytime.

• When you dig up a large shrub, save as many roots as possible. Most of the roots are within the top 12 inches of soil, so it’s important to get as many of the surface roots as you can.

• Now is a great time to prune fruit trees. Pruning allows the tree to direct nutrients to branches that will bear high quality fruit. The objective is to remove dead, diseased, or damaged wood. Also, remove shoots that are growing straight up or straight down, as neither provides good fruit development. Growth crisscrossing the center of the tree should be removed as well.

• If you are planning to add shade trees to your landscape, here a few things you should know. Some types of trees have roots that may invade drain fields, crack walks, and pierce foundation walls, so plan the placement and species of the trees to avoid problems. For instance, poplar and ash are known for cracking walls, and should never be planted near houses or walls. Keep these species at the perimeter of the yard. Maple roots can raise heavy concrete sidewalks, and willow and crabapple trees can invade drainage fields with their fibrous roots.

• Before planting a backyard orchard, map out the site, giving particular attention to air and water drainage. Avoid frost pockets, areas where cold air gathers, or you may be disappointed year after year when flower buds freeze and drop. Good water drainage is also important for good tree growth. If drainage is questionable, drainage tiles or land reformation may be required for productive fruit trees.